| I've put this section together to try and explain just how
you can make the new MFX Cyberman helmets the same as the original
screen-used ones - i.e. wearable. Note that it is totally your call to do
this, so I take no responsibility if you screw it up, or end up falling down
the stairs with it bolted to your head! Right, with that out the way,
here's a recap......
The Replica (left) and Original (right) helmets are almost EXACTLY the
same, except the replica has been lightly glued together so it sits nicely
as a collectable on its neato stand. Because its designed to be worn, the
ten original helmets had a simple latch mechanism inside that allowed the
performers to remove the back section to slip in on and off. ! |
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| Okay, so lets have a good look at the inside on an original
so we can identify what needs to be done.... |
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1) The little yellow dots (3 on each side and two at
the top). Note that these are only on the replicas and are the glue points
used to lightly secure the front to back.
2) Pivot point. Does nothing really apart from allows an "L" shaped
angle (the "L Tab") to slip into it such that you only need 2 clips
byt the ears and not one on the top!
3) Connection Lugs - simply pieces of aluminium with squares cut into
them which the clips in the back section engage into |
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| Here's a close-up of those clips used on the Cyberman (used
on the helmet and the rest of the armour in fact). Note that you only need
the clip part on the left hand side, as we're going to fabricate our own lug
out of Aluminium. The latches used on the originals are described by the
makers as "Small Tucktite NP, Page 26 Item 11", and are available from
James & Alden in London. |
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What you need to do:
a) Put your replica helmet on your lap upside down and gently push a
hacksaw blade between the front and back sections of the helmet. The 3 glue
spots on either side are shown below so its just a case of easing away at
the two sides so the acrylic adhesive bond is broken. It will not take much
effort. |
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| b) When both sides are free you should be able to gently
ease the two hemispheres apart and the top glue bonds will pop open. c)
Pour yourself a nice Scotch and remind yourself you are a brave, brave man
d) You need three short lengths of 3cm aluminium strip (it doesn't have
to be Aluminium). One for the "L-Tab" and two for the side Lugs.
e) Bend the L-Tab piece using pliers and glue it to the top of the rear
section using 2-part epoxy, such that the back section will interlock into
the top of the face section. If there still isn't enough purchase to hold
the "L" against the front of the face then build up this area using standard
car body filler - you'll only need a small amount.
f) Cut out a channel in the two Aluminium lugs you made, such that the
clips you bought will be able to engage into them (and clip out!). Glue
these to the inside casing of the mask face. The metal pins in the side of
the helmet (under the ears) go all the way through. You will know you've
lined these up correctly as the pin will poke through at right angles to the
hole in the lug. When the helmet is on and locked, pressing the pin should
push against the clip thus allowing the helmet to open - neat eh!. |
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| f) Screw the metal latches you bought to a couple of strips |
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| g)...and then glue these with 2-part epoxy to each side of
the helmet back such that they line up with the lugs you added in the helmet
face. Make sure the movable part of the metal latch so the pin will allow
the helmet to open! |
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| h) That's about it - just make sure that before you put it
on the side pins do actually release the spring clips - otherwise you could
be up for an embarrassing trip to the neighbours to see if they've got a tin
opener! |
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| When you've finished you should have something that only an
expert could tell apart from anoriginal like this one above. |
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